In a season in which pants are making such a strong comeback, it made perfect sense for Giorgio Armani to remind the world what an authority he is on the subject. His couture collection was based around the image of nightfall, the colors of daybreak, sunset, and finally, the starry night skies. But it was the emphasis on trousers that first caught the eye as his models began to walk out, gracefully, on flat, pointed shoes. The cut of the pants, fluid and based in menswear without being mannish, served as a reminder of the revolution in soft tailoring for women that Armani set in motion in the eighties. It’s not that this show had a retrospective feel about it—just that the timing of that reintroduction is serendipitously in sync with the way a new generation happens to be feeling. Mr. Armani might not know it, but young designers are currently lionizing his early collections; this summer’s graduate portfolios have been crammed full of Armani inspirations.

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